Working on the stand

At the beginning of the design process design work was also conducted on the stand. Meaning fabric was used to play around with different shapes and ideas directly onto the mannequin, the fabric could then be marked and a paper pattern made. After finding the image below it was decided to try and create a coat collar. 

https://pleasurephotoroom.wordpress.com/tag/50s/page/9/ [27/03/15]

A large square of calico was marked with the centre front (CF) marked on the straight grain of the fabric, also marking the bust line at a 90 degree angle to the CF. These were then pinned in line with the tape on the mannequin so the remaining fabric could then be manipulated.

The fabric was scrunched and pinned creating a large statement collar that could be used in my design work. This first attempt only constructed the front of the collar. The back and the front should have been made in conjunction with each other as once constructed one will effect how the other falls.  

The next step was to work with two pieces of fabric, as before the CF and CB were pinned in place. The shoulder seam and also the collar side seam were pinned and the excess fabric was cut away as shown in the left of the image above. The fabric was manipulated as before however this time it was more difficult as when he back fabric was scrunched the front moved.

Front

Back

This activity helped to understand the front and back of the collar as a whole. All tucks were marked onto the fabric with pen so this could then be traced off onto paper. This sample however does not take into account how the collar would be pulled over the wearers head therefore should be developed further to incorporate a CF opening or a front opening of some kind.